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040			_aMAIN
041			_aEng
100			_aUgolini,Laura _963474
245			_aThe Illicit Consumption of Military Uniforms in Britain, 1914–1918 _cLaura Ugolini
260			_aOxford: _bOxford University Press, _c2011.
300			_aVolume 24, Issue 2, May 2011, (125–138 p.)
310			_aQuarterly
520			_aFocusing on the British home front during the First World War, this article explores civilians’ motives for acquiring and wearing military garments and accoutrements to which they were not entitled. It suggests that uniforms could be donned either to avoid the attentions of recruiting sergeants, or to perpetrate criminal deceptions. That said, individuals did not always wear illicit uniforms in order to ‘disguise’ their civilian identity. Rather, many men claimed a sense of entitlement to such items, either on the basis of previous war service, or, more often, on the basis of their contributions to the war effort on the home front. The acquisition of military items could also reflect men's roles as consumers: for many civilians, acquiring and wearing the newly glamorous uniforms was a consumer choice that could also open the door to further leisure and consumer opportunities. Overall, illicitly wearing military items undermined the uniform's link with service and sacrifice on the battle fronts: it allowed individuals to assume the appearance of combatants or to assert their patriotic identities without actually exposing themselves to military duties or dangers. It also reflected (some) men's continued perception of themselves as consumers, keen, even in wartime, to adopt what they saw as the most desirable sartorial option.
650			_aCivilians _y19th _zEurope _963523
650			_aConsumption
650			_aFirst World War
650			_aMasculinity _937397
773	0		_09229 _913522 _dOxford: Oxford University Press, 2011. _oJ000329 _tJournal of Design History _x0952-4649
856			_uhttps://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epr004
942			_cART
999			_c15379 _d15379